Experience of Mukuyuni village, Kenya

This is a story about a special person who I met during my first days in Kenya and about the life of people in his village called “Mukuyuni”. Mutysia is a father of two great kids, he loves his country and is desperate to show it to people arriving from abroad. I met Mutysia’s wife via the Hospitality club 4 weeks before my departure and scheduled to meet in the Nairobi city center with her husband.


Our meeting went exactly as scheduled. I was amazed and concluded that its not about the distance or time over what you schedule things but about people. Mutysia picked me up together with his small son and we all then browsed the city center, me being given some helpful advice about life in Kenya. Mutysia got randomly stopped by his friends many times, for a short chat. I guess he got to talk to about 30 people during one hour of walking. Recently, I read somewhere that a first random meetings of your friends on the street of your town is a sign that this is really your home. I also felt like at home. Suddenly, everything felt so homely.

Picture: Mutysia at his coffee farm

Following day Mutysia suggested to visit his family in Mukuyuni, a tiny village in the Machakos region, about 60 km southeast from Nairobi. I could not refuse a visit to rural areas with an accompany of local person with all the necessary knowledge . In few hours we were already driving through the semi-arid land of Akamba people, approaching towards Machakos and then the promised Mukuyuni. The landscape was flat (we were still on a high plateau) with only few sparsely vegetated mountain ranges popping up. Once we get closer to Mukuyuni in the Yatto plateau things got considerably greener and the soil extremely red.

NOTE: Akamba is the fourth largest tribe in Kenya. The akamba people speak Kikamba language and they are known for their business skills. I dear to say that Mutysia was an akamba, he spend 4 hours a day on phone talking with friends and managing his businesses :-)

It was extremely dark when we arrived to Mukuyuni. First, we stopped in the restaurant of Mutisia’s sister in law. Try to imagine a small village (maybe 200 people), totally abandoned in darkness of south central Kenya, its 9pm, its completely dark with black sky spreaded by shining stars, silence, some sporadic lights in houses. A place called Teahouse is surrounded by locals, but everything seems silent, ten man sitting outside in the dark, drinking beer or Kenyan tee and discussing politics, another ten sitting inside playing board games with caps. When the caps fall from the table, the small youngsters get them and proudly bring back. I greet everybody with the necessary shake of hands. They did not seem very surprised by mzungu. The chief of the village was also present. Older, skinny and very tall man.

Mutysia explained to me earlier that this is very sad time for the village. Several people died only recently and today all adult man from the village are suppose to meet and discuss the arrangements of the burial. One hour later we already drove to a small house of Mutysia’s relatives and the meeting began. Although women never participate in similar meetings, being a white tourist I was given an exception. Chief of the village, me and 14 other Akamba local man sit for following one hour around a fireplace, 13 of us discussing arrangements for the burial in Kikamba, me - being fascinated by the situation I got into. After the meeting we followed to Mutysia’s home. Here, I got to know the entire Mutisia's family. His wife, father, mum, brothers, and Mutisia's incredible active and happy younger sun. The oldest member of the family, Mutysia's grandmother was already asleep. I hope to meet her tomorrow.

Picture: Yatta Plateau

After a short chat with the entire family, we broke away to go to sleep. I was given a room in the house of Mutysia's parents. Who has ever traveled alone far from his/her country knows that the dark evenings and the waiting to fall asleep in unknown home can get pretty sad, lonely and maybe little scary. Thanks for the excellent Kenyan network, at least I could exchange few sms with my best friend Gabca who just recently spend 1 year in Kongo and knew what feelings can one get.

“A morning in Mukuyuni is coming soon…”